中文(中国) 
2025-12-16 15:31:24
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3D printing started as something nerds did in their garages. Now big companies rely on it every day.
It began as a quick way to build rough prototypes. These days it makes real stuff—like medical implants, car parts, or even whole houses.
When you have to show a design to investors or check how the final product will look, tiny details and smooth surfaces become super important.
The two most common ways to print prototypes are SLA (Stereolithography) and FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling). Both work. But they’re good at different things—especially when sharp details and a polished appearance matter.
This guide puts them head-to-head so you can choose the one that fits your project best.
How SLA Actually Works
SLA uses a UV laser to harden liquid resin one layer at a time. The build platform sits inside a tank of resin. The laser draws each layer. Then the platform moves up a tiny bit for the next one.
At Momaking, you can choose different resolution settings. The best one—micro-resolution—goes down to 25-micron layers. That’s thin enough for extremely fine details. Supports and a smooth recoating system help everything come out clean.
How FDM Actually Works
FDM melts plastic filament and squeezes it out through a hot nozzle. The nozzle moves around and lays down the melted plastic layer by layer. Each layer cools and sticks to the one below.
It’s cheap and simple, but the nozzle size and the way plastic cools limit how small or smooth you can go.
Side-by-Side Comparison: SLA vs FDM for High-Detail Work
| Feature | SLA (Momaking) | FDM |
| Technology | UV laser cures liquid resin | Melts and extrudes plastic filament |
| Typical Layer Height | 25–100 microns | 100–300 microns |
| Smallest Feature Size | 0.1 mm or smaller | 0.5 mm or larger |
| Surface Finish (raw) | Very smooth, almost like injection molding | Obvious layer lines |
| Accuracy | ±0.05 mm | ±0.2 mm |
| Strength Direction | Pretty much the same in all directions | Weaker between layers |
| Max Part Size (Momaking) | Depends on machine (up to 192 mm in some modes) | Usually bigger possible |
| Common Materials | Standard, tough, clear resins | PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU |
| Post-Processing Needed | Usually just a quick polish | Often sanding, filling, painting |
Why SLA Wins for Fine Details and Smooth Looks
SLA model parts look amazing right off the printer. With Momaking’s 25-micron mode, you can print tiny text, small gears, or organic curves that actually look sharp.
The surface feels like real plastic from a mold. You barely need to sand or paint. That’s perfect when you’re showing the model to clients or investors.
You can also get razor-sharp corners, walls thinner than half a millimeter, and crystal-clear parts with the right resin. The downside? Normal resins can yellow in sunlight and don’t last forever outdoors.
Where FDM Falls Short for Detail Work
Even at the best settings (100–150 microns), FDM prints show layer lines. Those lines hide tiny details and make the part look rough.
Parts are stronger side-to-side than top-to-bottom. Small holes can come out wrong. Thin walls sometimes collapse. Support marks leave little scars after you pull them off.
That said, FDM is still great for quick-and-dirty tests, big parts, or when you need real engineering plastics on a budget.
When You Should Pick SLA at Momaking
Go with SLA if looks and precision are critical:
· Models for investors or trade shows
· Detailed miniatures, jewelry masters, dental models
· Clear or see-through parts
· Microfluidic devices
· Patterns for molding or casting
· Anything with features smaller than 0.5 mm
When FDM Is Still Good Enough FDM works fine for:
· Early concept models
· Big pieces where finish doesn’t matter
· Functional tests with real-world plastics
· Tight budgets or same-day needs
Even More Detailed Options at Momaking
Need something beyond regular SLA? Momaking also has PolyJet. It sprays 16–30 micron layers and can print full color or mix soft and hard materials in one part.
We also carry special ultra-high-resolution resins that go below 25 microns—great for medical models, tiny wearables, or optical parts.
If every little detail counts, SLA service beats FDM every time on resolution, smoothness, and accuracy. Your prototype will look and feel like the final product.
Ready to get started? Head over to Momaking, upload your file, and get an instant quote for SLA, PolyJet, or FDM.
FAQ
Q: Do SLA parts turn yellow or get brittle?
A: Regular resins can yellow in sunlight. Ask us about UV-stable or tough resins if you need longer life.
Q: Can I get completely clear SLA parts?
A: Absolutely. We have water-clear resins. A quick polish and they look like glass—great for lenses or fluid channels.
Q: How fast can I get a detailed SLA print?
A: Most orders ship in 1–3 business days. Need it tomorrow? Just ask—we offer same-day and 24-hour rush.
16 December 2025
